Surfing

I got my surfboard week ago on monday afternoon and headed straight to the beach with a dutch guy Sjord(Stewart). The first surfing experience here in Australia was with the setting sun and calm ocean. Even if the waves were not good I still had fun just carrying my board towards the beautiful nobby's beach and thinking that this is the moment that I was so keen waiting for. There are many beaches around Newcastle but so far I've liked the Nobby's beach with fine squeaky sand, lighthouse, pier and green grass the best. We have been wondering why the sand keeps loud squeaky noise when you walk on it. Never heard that before.

I was surfing on mon,tue,wed,fri and sat last week and also yesterday on monday so you could say that I don't have problems with my free time anymore. I think I haven't got a much better in a week, but it seems that I can spend more time in the water before getting too exhausted in paddling. I have also learnt to know my board a little bit better and are getting used to balancing it in the water. Yes, I also manage to catch the wave and stand up, sometimes. Sometimes I end up nose diving, flying to the water like a vendace, and rolling couple of seconds in the washing machine caused by the collapsing wave.

So I have been surfing with my school mate Sjord who is living just next to the beach. He is living with 38year old aussie surfer, who is also studying in university. Their whole apartment is packed with old surfboards and old surfing and fishing stuff including some trophies. I am considering myself very lucky because I can temporarily store my board in his apartment as well. Since I don't yet have a car, travelling to the beach by bus with 2.6m board would take heaps of effort. Sjord has been surfing a bit over 1 month now and had his first experiences in Portugal. He is already training with 6.7foot shortboard. Respect.